Mandarin-Collar Blouse
With a stand collar and a gathered sleeve frill
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A woven poplin blouse shaped by four darts, with a stand collar, a shirttail hem, and short set-in sleeves finished with a gathered frill. Six pattern pieces, eleven pieces of fabric, a button front and a hook and bar at the collar.
Pattern specification
- Size range
- XS–XXL
- Skill level
- Advanced
- Recommended fabric
- Midweight cotton poplin or shirting. Crisp, not soft. The collar stands up on its own and a drapey fabric will let it flop.
- Colours shown
- White.
- Yardage
- 1.2 m of 145 cm wide fabric for XS to M, 1.5 m for L to XXL. This is the only pattern in the range quoted at 145 cm rather than 150 cm.
- Notions required
- 30 cm of lightweight fusible interfacing, 3 buttons at 10 mm (4 for L to XXL if you want one more), and one hook and bar.
- Stretch required
- None. This is a woven and nothing in it stretches, so the size has to be right before you sew.
- Seam allowance
- 1 cm throughout, including the sleeve's lower edge. Body hem 1.3 cm.
- Format
- PDF — print at home or copy shop
Size chart
| Size | Bust | Waist | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 16.7 / 42.5 | 15.2 / 38.6 | 19.4 / 49.2 |
| S | 17.7 / 45.0 | 16.2 / 41.1 | 19.8 / 50.4 |
| M | 18.7 / 47.5 | 17.2 / 43.7 | 20.4 / 51.7 |
| L | 19.7 / 50.0 | 18.2 / 46.1 | 20.8 / 52.9 |
| XL | 20.9 / 53.0 | 19.4 / 49.2 | 21.3 / 54.2 |
| XXL | 22.4 / 57.0 | 20.9 / 53.1 | 21.8 / 55.4 |
Finished garment, measured flat. Bust and waist are half the measurement all the way round. Length is centre back, neck to hem. Inches / centimetres.
Key details
- The interfacing is needed and it is not marked on the pattern sheet. Fuse one of the two collar pieces and both front facings. Without it the collar will not stand and the buttonholes will stretch.
- The sleeve frill is standard, not optional. Finished depth is 2.6 cm and the fullness is about 1.8 to 1, so it is gathered to nearly twice the sleeve edge and stands out rather than hanging flat.
- The sleeve's lower edge carries a 1 cm seam allowance rather than a hem allowance, because the frill goes there. Both the sleeve and the frill carry a centre notch.
- This is the only woven pattern in the range. Everything else is a knit shaped by stretch, binding or gathering. This one is shaped by darts, two long ones in the back and one short one at each side of the front.
- Sizing runs the opposite way to the knits. The finished bust carries 3 to 8 cm of ease over the body and there is nothing to stretch, so between sizes take the larger one. The side seams and the darts give you room to take it in.
- The fits-bust ranges are 77 to 82, 83 to 87, 88 to 92, 93 to 97, 98 to 103 and 104 to 110 cm, XS to XXL. They sit lower than the draped tops at the same size label, so measure rather than assume you are the same size in both.
- Collar height is 2.2 cm on every size.
Pattern pieces
- Front (cut 2, mirrored)
- Back (cut 1)
- Front facing (cut 2, mirrored)
- Sleeve (cut 2)
- Collar (cut 2)
- Sleeve frill (cut 2)
In the download
- A0 copy-shop file — 1p
- US Letter / A4 print file — 29p
- Construction workflow — 11p
This is a digital pattern. Nothing ships — your download link is emailed the moment you check out, and stays in your order confirmation.
Licensed for personal use only. Files may not be resold, redistributed, shared or used for commercial production without written permission from Kissing Parasites.